Jamaica Inn sits high on Bodmin Moor at Bolventor, right beside the A30. We went for an early dinner on a blustery, stormy-looking evening, which turned out to be very apt for a visit to a smugglers’ inn on the moors.

The inn has been here since the 1700s and has a long history tied up with smuggling. It is best known now as the setting and namesake of Daphne du Maurier’s novel, which she wrote after staying here. There is a museum on site covering both the smuggling history and du Maurier herself.

It is very dog-friendly and there is plenty of room. The decor leans into the history and perhaps verges on theme-park in places, but it is a lot of fun, and on a wild night on the moor it all feels rather fitting.

The food was good. Ros had fish and chips and I had a steak and ale pie – warming food for an unseasonably cool and wet day. After a long day of wet weather, it was a welcome stop.

Worth knowing: the inn is a real destination in its own right, not just a roadside stop. If you are crossing Bodmin Moor it is well worth pulling in, especially in atmospheric weather.